We are now in flight to Luang Prabang, Laos leaving Our week in Vietnam. The only time to take a break and reflect/write is in flight - otherwise there is too much to see and do. Nate's last update was the first morning we awoke in Hanoi when I was feeling ill and sleeping off my stomach pains. During that morning Nate studied the ways of crossing the busy scooter-laden intersections of madly beeping vehicles. He also wisely assessed the hustling pace of the city and decided to choose a few quiet sanctuary- like restaurants, parks and cafes as destinations to head for during my recooperation.
As we were walking north along the lake Nate took my hand and we headed out to cross a crazy intersection. I squeezed his hand and he felt my hesitation but quickly explained that as long as you don't stop no one will be confused and it will all work out. It turns out that is the case and we were frequently traversing the streets with ease. I must say it's easier with 2 people so you each look one direction and it feels much safer with a hand being held. That being said my preference is sitting in a bicycle taxi and just watching it all go by.
Our second day in Hanoi we headed out to Halong Bay which started out with a 3.5 hour van ride. It was comfortable and beautiful as we passed hundreds of plots of rice paddies and watched the farmers work the land. The rice sprouts are young in the season (about month 1 of 3) with some fields growing baby sprouts, some fields had sprounts which were being hand harvested and bundled for transplantation, and some of the plots were being plowed by water buffalo to ready them for planting. The farmers wear round straw hats, and knee high rubbers boots as the Wade in the marshy fields (although there were some bare feet too). Watering is done by a brilliant primative method where bamboo tripods are set up next to the aqueduct and a large scoop is swung so the water is gathered and swung over the small dirt mound into the farmers irrigation channels.
When we arrived at Halong City port we were guided to our "Junk" (boat) where we met 2 German women from Frankfurt and an American woman from New York. We all boarded and looked around the huge wooden boat, with rooms to accomodate 16, and realized we were the only guests are were there to enjoy the boat and 6 staff for 24 hours. I realized that now was the time to feel like royalty transported to another time and land.
We were served an amazing lunch of fresh crab and shrimp along with rice and vegetables as we began motoring through the dreamy misty bay of huge limestone islands (there are about 2000, half of which are named). We laid on the sun deck on chaise lounges and watched the outcroppings pass by. We arrived outside the bay of a fishing village and motored in on our small boat to a floating dock. From there we boarded a small round boat made of thatched reeds and painted, on the outside, with waterproof tar. The boat was rowed by a petite strong local woman with two narrow oars (much like the stoechling boats in the Rhein in Basel). She took us into the floating village where people earned their living by fishing and selling/trading with the mainlanders. They live out in this secluded bay which is protected somewhat from typhoons. Their village center consisted of several different fish farms and a tiny one room primary school where the local children receive their only formal education.
We saw a small 5 year old boy out alone efficiently paddling a boat with all his might. There were no obvious vigilant eyes on him but I am pretty certain he couldn't find himself in too much trouble with such a close knit community. Nate and I laughed when we thought of what the dating scene might be like there!
We motored back to our Junk and had time to take a few plunges from the top of our boat into the beautiful clear water. Our friends took a hilarious photo of us jumping into the bay... Despite the danger of posting a photo of us in bathing suits on this website I think this picture is worth about a thousand words.
After warm showers we sat on the deck and watched the sunset and then sat down to another delicious dinner of crab, calamari, shrimp, taro, veggies and rice. Needless to say we feasted and enjoyed the scenery and the quiet.
After that is where Nate and my experience veered from each other as he was pretty sick most of the night with very similar stomach pains to what I had the few days before. They subsided after a day or so and he was able to make the van ride back to Hanoi but was very relieved when we settled back into our hotel for the night. Now he is fully recovered and we both feel our digestive systems are stronger and ready for the rest of the trip.
Ok, I will sign off here as we are now in Luang Prabang, Laos and its completely amazing here and tropical and (relatively) quiet and peaceful. We have eaten wonderful food and are on our way to a waterfall so I need to run and get ready. Neither of us can believe we are just starting week #2!!!!!
xo Cinda
Sunday, February 28, 2010
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